Diana Does Kyoto

July 16, 2008

Kyoto was recommended by both the internet guides and friends who had been there as a must-visit in Japan for its a look into a more traditional Japan, with its many shrines and gardens. Even for someone who doesn’t have very good directional skills, Kyoto is relatively simple to navigate. For free-and-easy travellers, it’s sufficient to get the one or two-day bus pass (which costs about 500 YEN), the buses stop nearer to many of the attractions than the subway. Not wanting to experience shrine-fatigue, I made very very selective choices.

Kinkakuji Temple – The Golden Pavilion. Very pretty.

I enjoyed an organic dinner at Bio Tei, which is a cosy setup located near the Kyoto National Museum (second floor above a boutique). This cafe serves light, cleansing meals for over 1000YEN (about S$15). For my set, I had a nato omelette, two kinds of salads, miso soup and brown rice. 

The next day, I decided to visit the Fushimi Inari, located at Fushimi-ku (in between Nara and Kyoto), after an early morning visit to Kiyomizu-dera (also very beautiful), to kill time before lunch. According to Wikipedia, the shrine sits at the base of a mountain also named Inari, and includes trails up the mountain to many smaller shrines. Hence began my journey to become the StairMaster Queen as I trudged up and down the seemingly neverending trail of footpath through these gates known as torii for the next two hours.

After building my endurance level to L8, I decided that I deserved a good meal at the Minokichi of Kyoto restaurant in the Hotel New Hankyu Kyoto, right opposite the central exit of the Kyoto Station. It was the most gorgeous meal I had ever eaten, in Japan and anywhere else.

The set lunch consisted of typical Kyoto cuisine. I think this meal for me was the epitome of how I see my Japanese food experience – it was satisfying, but never filling or overdone. Everything was just right.

Diana Does Hakone

July 12, 2008

On Friday, we decided to head down to a traditional Japanese ryokan, Ichinoyu, in Hakone, for some good onsen (hot springs) soaking. This ryokan was recommended by my guidebook (Frommers), for both the food (yay!) and the ambience.

Ichinoyu opened its doors in the 1630s, and some parts of the ryokan apparently are preserved from that era!

Me in the traditional onsen outfit. You’re supposed to wear this (sans everything else) everywhere within the ryokan. 

A photo in the lobby.

THE FOOD NOW. We choose the Dinner Set B, which added a sashimi on top of the standard shabu shabu set.

SASHIMI – worth the trip

The tofu in gravy tasted home-made and had a very soft, slip-down-your-throat texture. The pickled greens with bamboo and a fish cake was not as memorable. 

Fried fish

The rice was cooked in yam and vegetable bits, and behind that is the shabu-shabu.

Scallops baked in olive oil and tomato salsa

Our palette-cleansing yuzu sorbet

For those who haven’t tried going to an onsen, you must. It’s a liberating experience as you go through the process entirely exposed with other women of all ages. From what I observed, going to a public bathhouse is a bonding experience for both men and women with friends and families. It was heartening to see aunties helping to scrub the backs of their friends while they chatted happily amongst themselves.

In other news, I have officially become a graduate! Yesterday’s Grad Night was a good opportunity for me to meet my old friends and find out how everyone is doing. Apparently, many people thought that I had left for Hong Kong for good (A common refrain: You’re back????). Well, it’s still a good one month before I’m heading to the Pearl of the Orient to start a phase in my life. Within this time, I’m actually going to do an internship/apprenticeship with 2am:dessertbar for two weeks. Let’s see how it goes!

 

Day 2: Cafe in Daikanyama

Cheesecake

Chestnut cream tart (I love this)

Berry cake

Very pretty coffee cup

Day 3: Tsukiji Market

Don’t ask me why, but I always thought that the Tsukiji Fish Market would be kind of like a Disneyland-type of tourist attraction. In my mind, I thought that there would be a main entrance where you would be guided towards the different areas where there would be on-going auctions, people explaining the market’s history and operations etc.

It was only when I arrived at the market that I realised, oh, this is ACTUALLY a real market. It looked like one, it smelled like one, and more importantly, it felt like one. The workers were rushing from one location to another, on their mini fish truck vehicle, and more often than not, eager to get awe-struck visitors like us out of their way. We had arrived at around seven am, and had missed the auctions, but there was still much to see as we strolled ducked and sped along the stalls.

TUNA, I like.

Many many varieties of seafood

Of course, my much-awaited part of the excursion was the eating. We had decided on a small and crowded (but not as crowded as the one next door) eatery located about two streets away from the market grounds.

We were packed in like sardines, and like most customers, we went for the set-o, which went for 3500 Yen (about S$60). It consisted of seven pieces of nigiri, six rolled-up sushi slices, and a miso soup made with fresh mini clams.

The o-toro (fatty tuna) nigiri was one of the best I had ever tasted in my life. I savoured the sweetness from the marbled fat as it slowly melted into my mouth. It was truly truly truly scrumptious. After that, I knew I could never eat in some of the sushi restaurants in Singapore without comparing its heavenly taste again. NEVER.

Day 3: Ramen in Shibuya

One of the must-dos for a tourist – ordering from the ramen machine

The soup was miso-based, and again, it was delicious. I like that in Japan, you can land up in a nondescript shop and still be assured of good quality food.

Japan rocked for two things – its people and its food. Even though many Japanese don’t speak English, they try their best to help you out how ever they can, which is indeed very helpful for a Lonely Planet traveller (ie sans tour guide, staying in hostels) like myself.

Of course, my main aim for this trip was to EAT. That, I did. My conclusion is, I can honestly say that I want to eat Japanese food for most of the rest of my life. I love the freshness and the way it is presented. Everything is ornately placed, intricately prepared and generally YUMMY. Because I took over 500 hundred photos during the trip, I shall make the effort to talk less, and show more.

Day 1: First supper at the hostel in Tokyo

Chocolate milk and nato sushi wrap

Day 2: Grilled meat sticks at Shinjuku

Grilled chicken cartillage

Grilled chicken meat

Grilled enoki mushrooms wrapped in pork slices

Chocolate cake and coffee at a cafe in Harajuku

Day 2: Picnic at park in Shinjuku (we bought our food from Isetan food hall – it’s Japanese takeaway heaven!)

Tonkatsu galore!

Day 2: Picnic at an ex-imperial park in Shinjuku (with Ai!)

Our picnic food!

I was in a tonkatsu-kind-of-mood.

My picnic companions’ sushi bento

Tonkatsu sandwich – odd, but it works

For someone who calls her blog dianadoesdesserts, how could I have missed the Pierre Herme macarons!?? I tried the Ispahan and Chocolate – both extremely delicious.

Me sitting pretty (and full).

 

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